1. Fred Mitchell
   Member
   

   Does anyone know of a good insert for can light housings? Specifically, I'm contemplating sealing all ventilation holes in the existing housing and insulating over the top of the unit. Is there a bulb/insert that can handle the heat in this environment?

   Thanks

   Posted 6 months ago #

2. DanWildenhaus
   Member
   

   Fred-

   There is an LED insert that might work for this application. You still need to make sure that the can will not over heat. That means reading any warnings on the LED insert.

   Here are two methods:

   Standard:http://www.ledtronics.com/Products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=C873K851

   Interesting: http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Recessed-Lighting-Retrofit/

   I will keep up with this discussion as it is one of my favorites. I am assuming you don't want to just build "hats" for the can lights?

   Dan

   Posted 6 months ago #

3. Bob Thoreson
   Member
   

   There's also an insert that seals the inside of the can from the attic. It's about $8. They have them at Lowes in the can light section.
   Bob

   Posted 6 months ago #

4. Charlie_Rogers
   Board Secretary
   

   Ah, yes...I rate can lights as one of the top three most irritating features a house can have. My other two are interstitial cavities used as forced air ducts and rodents.

   There has been some discussion on this topic already:
   http://www.homeperformancewashington.org/forum/topic/recessed-light-retrofit#post-25

   I don't feel there really is a 'good' solution. I did a blower door on a house that had "air tight" cans and they were leaking like a sieve.

   I went to Lowe's to see their air-tight, full trims. None of them had a gasket for the flange that butts up against the ceiling board...

   But supposedly Halo and some other manufacturers make these trims with this gasket. There are some issues with compatibility, meaning not all full trims will work with all manufacturers cans.

   Even if you get an air tight (with the gaskets) you have to make sure they are installed properly. It requires someone unscrew the socket from the can housing so that the socket height can be adjusted to allow the trim to fit in such a way that it (and the gasket) are flush with the ceiling board.

   Posted 6 months ago #

5. Fred Mitchell
   Member
   

   Thanks all!

   Posted 6 months ago #

6. David Vollan
   Member
   

   Hi Guys,

   I suspect getting air tight can gaskets installed correctly in the field is a challange and probably a waste of time. In order to properly air seal a ceiling you have to have access to the top side of the drywall anyway. We seal around "air tight can lights" and seal the top plates of interior walls at the same time, so I don't see why anyone would bother with gaskets unless you have a cathederal ceiling, in which case you really shouldn't be using can lights anyway.

   My preferred approach to a cathederal ceiling (new construction) is to run Air Tight Drywall gasket around the top plates of the ceiling drywall air barrier assembly. Presumably, this should cut down on air leakage as the framing lumber dries, but I haven't had a chance to test this and observe it with an IR camera. In order to prevent wind washing of the insulation in the rafter bays we install 1/2" rigid foam as an air barrier held off 1" from the underside of the roof sheathing (for code required ventilation)and then install fiberglass batts or dense pack cellulose.

   Ideally, we shouldn't penetrate the ceiling air barrier at all and we should frame another chase for running wiring below the ceiling air barrier. I haven't had much luck selling the ADA approach much less telling builders to reframe their ceilings.

   Posted 6 months ago #

7. Charlie_Rogers
   Board Secretary
   

   How are you air sealing existing can lights from the attic? Are you using silicon caulking for IC-rated cans and hats for non-IC cans? Thanks - Charlie

   Posted 6 months ago #

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